Lice and Mites

Other Names

 External parasites

Organism or Mechanism

• Cuclotogater heterographus (head louse)
• Menacanthus stramineus (body louse)
• Menopon gallinae (shaft louse)
• Lipeurus caponis (wing louse)
• Dermanyssus gallinae (red mite)
 • Ornithonyssus sylviarium (Northern fowl mite)

Preventative Measures

• Lime runs yearly and fumigate with cayenne pepper.
• Keep wild birds, especially bird nests out of poultry houses.
• Paint roosts and nest boxes with oil.


Management Treatments

• Dust with flowers of sulfur.
• Provide dust bath of coal dust and road dust.
• Add wood ashes in dust bath.
• Add derris powder, quassia chip powder, cinders, and powdered charcoal to dust baths weekly.
• Add elecampane and fleabane to nest boxes.
• Place dried tobacco leaves in nest boxes.
• Rest runs and houses for at least 10 months after an outbreak since mites can live for up to 9 months off the chicken without a meal.
• For mites use Bacillus thuringiensis, predatory mites, or an application of silica dust.
• Encourage Coleoptera beetles to live and breed in poultry houses to control mites.
• Lightly blowtorch the areas of infestation, followed by washing down and disinfecting.


Physical Treatments

• Dust birds with tabacco.
• For chicks rub eucalyptus oil on the head.
• Mix 1 oz. of cedar oil mixed with 1 pint of other oil and apply to the neck and back.
• For young chicks mix 2 parts glycerin with 1 part carbolic acid mix together and add to 5 parts water; add to sprouting feathers.
• Using Diatomaceous earth to kill them.


Nutritional Treatments


Herbal Treatments

• Feed garlic.


Homeopathic Treatments

Infectious Laryngotracheitis

Other Names

Avian diphtheria


Organism or Mechanism

Avian herpes virus


Preventative Measures

• Maintain a closed flock.
• Avoid heaters that discharge noxious fumes.


Management Treatments


Physical Treatments

• Bathe eyes, insides of beaks and nostrils with a weak garlic solution.
• Give inhalations of eucalyptus, pine, or elecampane.


Nutritional Treatments


Herbal Treatments

• Give very high doses of garlic and drops of honey.


Homeopathic Treatments

• If coughing with blood stained mucous from trachea give--Aconite, Ipecac, or Millefolium.
• If difficulty breathing and head extended to breathe give--Antim tart, Bryonia.
• Cuprum
 

Influenza


Other Names

• avian influenza
• fowl plague


Organism or Mechanism

type A influenza orthomyxoviruses

Preventative Measures

• Do not visit farms with outbreak


Management Treatments


Physical Treatments

• Use Oxine (2% chlorine dioxide) non-activated fogged in house.

Nutritional Treatments


Herbal Treatments


Homeopathic Treatments

Infectious Bursal Disease

Introduction:

Infectious coryza is an acute respiratory disease of chickens characterized by nasal discharge, sneezing, and swelling of the face under the eyes. It is distributed worldwide. The disease is seen only in chickens; reports of the disease in quail and pheasants probably describe a similar disease that is caused by a different etiologic agent.

In developed countries such as the USA, the disease is seen primarily in pullets and layers and occasionally in broilers. In the USA, it is most prevalent in commercial flocks in California and the southeast, although northeastern USA has recently experienced significant outbreaks. In developing countries, the disease often is seen in very young chicks, even as young as 3 wk of age. Poor biosecurity, poor environment, and the stress of other diseases are probably the main reasons why infectious coryza is more of a problem in developing countries. The disease has no public health significance.

Etiology:

The causative bacterium, Haemophilus paragallinarum (gallinarum) is a gram-negative, pleomorphic, nonmotile, catalase-negative, microaerophilic rod that requires nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (V-factor) for in vitro growth. When grown on blood agar with a staphylococcal nurse colony that excretes the V-factor, the satellite colonies appear as dewdrops, growing adjacent to the nurse colony. V-factor-independent H paragallinarum have been recovered in South Africa and Mexico. The most commonly used serotyping scheme is the Page scheme, which groups H paragallinarum isolates into 3 serovars (A, B, and C) that correlate with immunotype specificity.

Epidemiology and Transmission:

Chronically ill or healthy carrier birds are the reservoir of infection. Chickens of all ages are susceptible, but susceptibility increases with age. The incubation period is 1-3 days, and the disease duration is usually 2-3 wk. Under field conditions, the duration may be longer in the presence of concurrent diseases, eg, mycoplasmosis. Infected flocks are a constant threat to uninfected flocks. Transmission is by direct contact, airborne droplets, and contamination of drinking water. “All-in/all-out” management has essentially eradicated infectious coryza from many commercial poultry establishments in the USA. Commercial farms that have multiple-age flocks tend to perpetuate the disease. Egg transmission does not occur. Molecular techniques such as restriction endonuclease analysis and ribotyping have been used to trace outbreaks of infectious coryza.

Clinical Findings:

Infectious coryza, swollen sinuses, hen In the mildest form of the disease, the only signs may be depression, a serous nasal discharge, and occasionally slight facial swelling. In the more severe form, there is severe swelling of one or both infraorbital sinuses with edema of the surrounding tissue, which may close one or both eyes. In adult birds, especially males, the edema may extend to the intermandibular space and wattles. The swelling usually abates in 10-14 days; however, if secondary  infection occurs, swelling can persist for months. There may be varying degrees of rales depending on the extent of infection. In Argentina, a septicemic form of the disease has been reported, probably due to concurrent infections. Egg production may be delayed in young pullets and severely reduced in producing hens. Birds may have diarrhea, and feed and water consumption usually is decreased during acute stages of the disease. Lesions: In acute cases, lesions may be limited to the infraorbital sinuses. There is a copious, tenacious, grayish, semifluid exudate. As the disease becomes chronic or other pathogens become involved, the sinus exudate may become consolidated and turn yellowish. Other lesions may include conjunctivitis, tracheitis, bronchitis, and airsacculitis, particularly if other pathogens are involved. The histopathologic response of respiratory organs consists of disintegration and hyperplasia of mucosal and glandular epithelia and edema with infiltration of heterophils, macrophages, and mast cells.

Diagnosis:

Isolation of a gram-negative, satellitic, catalase-negative organism from chickens in a flock with a history of a rapidly spreading coryza is diagnostic. The catalase test is essential, as nonpathogenic Haemophilus organisms, which are catalase-positive, are present in both healthy and diseased chickens. A PCR test that can be used on the live chicken and that has proved superior to culture, even in developing countries, has been developed. Production of typical signs after inoculation with nasal exudate from infected into susceptible chickens is also reliable diagnostically. No suitable serologic test exists; a hemagglutination-inhibition test is the best of the available tests. Swelling of the face and wattles must be differentiated from that seen in fowl cholera ( Fowl Cholera: Introduction). Other diseases that must be considered are mycoplasmosis, laryngotracheitis, Newcastle disease, infectious bronchitis, avian influenza, swollen head syndrome (ornithobacterosis), and vitamin A deficiency. While currently found only in South Africa and Mexico, the presence of a V-factor-independent H paragallinarum must also be considered. The H paragallinarum PCR is an ideal diagnostic tool in this situation.

Control and Treatment:

Prevention is the only sound method of control. “All-in/all-out” farm programs with sound management and isolation methods are the best way to avoid the disease. Replacements should be raised on the same farm or obtained from clean flocks. If replacement pullets are to be placed on a farm that has a history of infectious coryza, bacterins are available to help prevent and control the disease. USDA-licensed bacterins are available, and bacterins also are produced within states for intrastate use. Bacterins also are produced in many other countries. Because serovars A, B, and C are not cross-protective, it is essential that bacterins contain the serovars present in the target population. Vaccination should be completed ~4 wk before infectious coryza usually breaks out on the individual farm. Antibodies detected by the hemagglutination-inhibition test after bacterin administration correlate with protective immunity. Controlled exposure to live organisms also has been used to immunize layers in endemic areas. Because early treatment is important, water medication is recommended immediately until medicated feed is available. Erythromycin and oxytetracycline are usually beneficial. Several new-generation antibiotics (eg, fluoroquinolones, macrolides) are active against infectious coryza. Various sulfonamides, sulfonamide-trimethoprim, and other combinations have been successful but must not be used in layers. In more severe outbreaks, although treatment may result in improvement, the disease may recur when medication is discontinued. Preventive medication may be combined with a vaccination program, if started pullets are to be reared or housed on infected premises.

Other Names

• IBDV
• Gumboro disease


Organism or Mechanism

Birnavirus

Preventative Measures

• Operate an 'all-in, all-out' policy between batches of birds.
• Disinfect between batches.
• Store poultry manure for at least 3 months before spreading and do not spread on poultry pasture.
• Vaccinate.


Management Treatments

• Close and isolate buildings.
• Remove and burn bedding, disinfect housing.
• Remove top few inches of soil in heavily infected areas.


Physical Treatments


Nutritional Treatments


Herbal Treatments


Homeopathic Treatments

• If birds inactive, reduced appetite, feathers ruffled give--Alfa alfa, China, Gelsemium.
• If watery feces with high urine content give--Kali phos+Calc phos.
• If swelling of kidneys marked enlargement of bursa of fabricius give--Berg vulg, Canharis, Lachesis.
• Combination remedy of Gelsemium30+Acid phos30+Calc phos30, 10ml each in 8 liters of water for 100 birds.

Infectious Coryza

Other Names

• Cold
• Coryza
• Roup
• Catarrh
• Pip
• roop


Organism or Mechanism

Haemophilus paragallinarum bacteria

Preventative Measures

• Avoid mixing age groups.
• Provide a warm, draft-free housing in winter.


Management Treatments

• Fix drafts and provide dry litter.


Physical Treatments

• Spray a fine mist of camphor over the birds at night.
• Place a few drops of camphor oil in each nostril.
• Squirt hydrogen peroxide diluted one half with water into the nostrils.
• Oxine (2% chlorine dioxide) non-activated fogged in house.
• Give inhalations of eucalyptus oil in boiling water.


Nutritional Treatments

• Fast for 1 day, then give laxative diet of cod-liver oil, chopped onions, and greens.
• Give warm mash of feed, molasses, vinegar, chopped garlic and onions.


Herbal Treatments

• Give plenty of garlic and strong sage tea with finely chopped spruce shoots in bran with molasses.
• Give eyebright tea.




Homeopathic Treatments

• DO NOT USE IN COMBINATION WITH CAMPHOR TREATMENTS
• If sneezing with thin, watery discharge give--Allium Cepa 3X or Arsenicum Alb.3X.
• If watery discharge from eyes give--Euphrashia 3X.
• If thick sticky discharge give--Mercurius Vivus 3X or Hepar Sulph 3X.
• With bad odor; Homeogalline (Dolios)
• Hepar sulph. and Spongia on alternate days or Calcarea carb. given alone.
• For early treatment give Mercurius viv. 12 pellets dissolved in drinking water, continue until cured, follow with Acidum sulph. if not cured.
• If caused by cold, wet weather or sudden changes in weather with increased discharge from nostrils and sneezing use Arsenicum 12 pellets dissolved in drinking water or mash. Follow with Mercurius viv. if not cured.
• If discharge thickens and eyes seem affected give Euphrasia.
• If due to dry, cold winds give Aconite.
• If occurs during warm, moist, relaxing weather give Gelsemium.
• If only partial relief from a remedy then give Hepar Sulph.
• If hens have puffed faces, bright red color, and crouch give Nux vomica.
• If nostrils are clogged and hens sit listless with open mouths give Sp.

Infectious Bronchitis

Other Names

IB


Organism or Mechanism

Single stranded RNA coronavirus


Preventative Measures

• Avoid mixing age groups.
• Birds laying wrinkled eggs are carriers and should be culled.
• Vaccinate.
• Maintain good air quality.
• Use an 'all-in/all-out' management policy with disinfecting between batches.
• Ensure houses are well ventilated but draft-free.
• Ensure houses are free from ammonia.
• Avoid multiple age groups.
• Prevent rodent infestation.

Management Treatments

• Provide warm draft-free housing in winter.
• Increasing the temp. of the house by 3-4 degrees C may reduce mortality rates in infected flocks.


Physical Treatments


Nutritional Treatment

• Give electrolytes in drinking water.


Herbal Treatments


Homeopathic Treatments

• For chronic form give Ipecacauh 3X, Antimonim tart 3X, Senega 3X, or Ammoniacum 3X.
• If nasal discharge give--Allium cepa, Kali bich.
• If coughing and sneezing give--Anti trat, Aconite.
• If damage to oviduct (false layer) give--Kali phos, Calc phos.

Gape Worms

Other Names

• gapes
• cough


Organism or Mechanism

Syngamus trachea pathogenic nematode roundworm carried by earthworms, beetles, sowbugs, grasshoppers, and earwigs


Preventative Measures

• Isolate birds from infected intermediate hosts, especially the earthworm.


Management Treatments

• Lime the infected ground.
• White wash roosts and walls.
• Plow up and plant rye in yards.

Physical Treatments

• Remove worms with oiled feather (sweet oil with a little clove oil) then add 3 drams of salicylate of soda/ quart of drinking water.
• Use a feather dipped in mixture of 4 drops eucalyptus oil to 1/2 pint castor oil to remove worms.


Nutritional Treatments


Herbal Treatments


Homeopathic Treatments

• China 3X in drinking water.
• Dulcamara and Drosera in alternation with Sulphur to complete the cure.
• Also Ignatia, Lachesis, or China

Frostbite

Other Names

• black comb


Organism or Mechanism

• freezing temperatures


Preventative Measures

• Prevent drafts.
• Cover combs with Vaseline.
• Use breeds with rose combs.

Management Treatments

• Seal up drafts.


Physical Treatments

• Apply Vaseline or calendula cream to comb and wattles.


Nutritional Treatments


Herbal Treatments

• Apply caldendula cream or salve to comb and wattles.


Homeopathic Treatments

• Lachesis 30C
• Agaricus muscarius 6C daily for 3-7days
• Phosphorous 6C daily for 3-7 days.

Egg Eating

Other Names


Organism or Mechanism

• broken eggs
• pecked eggs


Preventative Measures

• Provide one 12”X12” nest for every 4-5 hens and locate nests 2’ off the ground.
• Keep 2” of clean dry nesting material at all times.
• Remove broody hens.
• Do not have bright lights near the nest boxes.


Management Treatments

• Make mustard eggs by emptying an egg through a hole, filling the egg with mustard, and resealing it.
• Make mustard eggs with flour, mustard, red pepper and a little water and fill eggs. (8)


Physical Treatments


Nutritional Treatments

• Give free-choice oyster shell


Herbal Treatments


Homeopathic Treatments

• Calc Carb 30C or Sil 30C (20)

Egg Drop Syndrome

Other Names

EDS


Organism or Mechanism

• adenovirus carried by and widely distributed in wild and domestic ducks and geese.

Preventative Measures

• Provide good sanitation.
• Vaccinate if possible.
• Keep poultry away from ducks and geese.
• Minimize contact with wild birds.
• Purchase clean replacement stock.
• Ensure waterfowl does not contaminate water source.


Management Treatments

• Force molt hens to renew production


Physical Treatments


Nutritional Treatments


Herbal Treatments


Homeopathic Treatments
 
• Calcarea carb 3X (3) for poorly shaped eggs.
• Pulsatilla 3X for bloody shelled eggs.

Egg Bound

Introduction

Other Names

Organism or Mechanism

• retained egg

Preventative Measures

• Feed seaweed and chopped cleavers in bran mash daily.

Management Treatments

Physical Treatments

• Remove egg with olive oil.

• Massage sweet oil or castor oil in the vent.

Nutritional Treatments

Herbal Treatments

• Give a dose of a pinch of ginger in 1-tsp. Castor oil.

Homeopathic Treatments

• Pulsatilla 3X 

• Silicea 6C

• Nux vomica

Diarrhea

Other Names


dysentery, scouring


Organism or Mechanism


Preventative Measures


• Provide grit and greens.


Management Treatments

• Spread lime on yards.


Physical Treatments

• Add charcoal to mash (1 oz./quart of feed).
• Give electrolytes and sugar water (10 oz/gal) in drinking water.


Nutritional Treatments

• Feed mash of ground oats, wheat bran, and corn meal.
• For chicks feed raisins, grated raw apples, and dried or fresh bilberries.


Herbal Treatments

• For hens give warm milk with powdered slippery elm bark and honey 3X daily.
• For chicks fast ½ day then feed diet of milk, honey, slippery elm, dill, and arrowroot for 1 ½ days.


Homeopathic Treatments
 
• Ipecac 12 pellets in drinking water or wet mash
 • If due to bad food give Arsenicum or Chamomilla. (2) or Nux Vomica (20)
• For pasty white discharge give Carbo veg.

Crop Impaction

Other Names

• Crop binding
• Crop bound
• Swelled crop

Organism or Mechanism

impacted or plugged crop

Preventative Measures

• Give plenty of fresh water.
• Avoid long, stemmy grass.
• Since the gizzard if poorly developed in very young chicks, introduce grass slowly and allow the gizzard muscles to develop over a week or more.
• Remove old or fibrous grasses after mowing or allow it to rot before poultry ar
introduced.

Management Treatments

Physical Treatments

• Give olive oil.
• Pour oil or melted lard down the throat and massage the crop.
• Cut open crop, remove the contents, sprinkle crop walls with 1-tsp. Black pepper, and sew it up.
• Follow with diet of finely chopped hedge garlic, garlic, and rue.
• Anoint the cut with Calendula cerate or Arnica mixed with water.
• Treat with 3g of Epsom salts per 100 birds per day plus 10-15 ml of molasses per bird fed as a wet mash for 4 days.
• Administer approx. ½ a tumbler of warm water to birds with a syringe then upend the bird and gently massage the crop.

Nutritional Treatments

• Follow any surgical removal with diet of finely chopped hedge garlic, garlic, and rue.

Herbal Treatments

• Make of brew of ½ tsp. Powdered gentian root in a small cupful of water; add 1 T milk, 2-tsp. Olive oil and give twice.

Additional Information From Forums:

hens crop...impacted?

clip this post email this post what is this? see most clipped and recent clippings

Posted by beeliz 2 (My Page) on 

Mon, Sep 29, 08 at 11:26

Please,,if someone knows how to help,I'd greatly appreciate ..one of my hens has been a bit lethargic,eats and drinks,but sits on the coop floor at night(unusual).I examined her today and her crop is full but kinda soft,yet firm. like it's full of liquid?? I gave her some olive oil with warm water and a touch of apple cider vinegar to possibly help and messaged her. I don't know what else to do. Advise would be extremely helpful...no names mentioned .. (VELVET!!!)

---

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: hens crop...impacted?

clip this post email this post what is this? see most clipped and recent clippings

• Posted by velvet_sparrow z10 So. Calif. (My Page) on 
  Mon, Sep 29, 08 at 20:23

If her crop is full of water...does she seem excessively thirsty? Watch her and note how much water she drinks. Any unusual poops? Excessive thirst + green poops could mean kidney or liver failure. Feel her keel (breastbone)--has she lost any weight?You need to isolate her and determine if her crop is emptying. Put her in a small cage or somewhere indoors where she cannot possible get to anything to eat or drink. JUST FOR THE NIGHT, take away her food and water. When you do so, note the size of her crop. In the morning, check her again--her crop should be empty. If it ISN'T, then she isn't digesting properly. GIVE HER BACK HER FOOD & WATER REGARDLESS. If her crop is empty, well and good, she may just have a digestive upset (has she eaten or drunk anything unusual lately? Does she have access to long grass which can get would up in her crop?), and would benefit from a tablespoonful of plain yogurt with active cultures once or twice a day for about a week, and soft foods that are easy to digest. If her crop has NOT emptied overnight, than she has a bigger problem. It could be an impacted crop or a sour crop. Sour crop first: Is she barfing up any water? Pry open her beak and take a sniff--yeah, I know--is there a nasty smell? Nasty smell = sour crop, which is undigested food beginning to ferment or rot. An impaction could cause food to build up and go sour, or it could be caused by her digestion being off. Keep up with the ACV, olive oil and crop massage, but add in plain yogurt with active cultures, it'll help restore the 'good' bacteria to her gut. My friend Alan has great info on impacted crops and how to treat. This link will lead you to his 'Articles' page, use the list on the left to scroll down to 'Impacted Crop'. Make sure and read BOTH methods--old & new--for all of the information: http://browneggblueegg.com/Article.html He also has an article on 'Sour Crop' that is worth reading. He states that he no longer attempts to empty impacted crops as this has resulted in the death of several birds--so if you decide to do anything which involves helping your bird to regurgitate fluids/solids, do it carefully and with much forethought. The following is from another chicken forum I'm on, this is NOT my experience, I haven't had to do this yet! But here it is, just FYI: ***************************************** Here is more info on sour crop and how to treat: Impacted Crop By Alan Stanford, Ph.D. Brown Egg Blue Egg I Relied Upon Glenda L Heywood National Poultry News and the The Chicken Health Handbook by Gail Damerow Copied with Alan's permission From: http://www.browneggblueegg.com/ImpactedCrop.html Impacted crops are not caused by your birds needing more grit. Grit is indeed necessary for birds that eat other than commercial feed; they need grit when they eat scratch grains, greens, and when they free range. Birds use grit in their gizzards to grind food; but the gizzard is far "downstream" from the crop. The crop is a kind of foyer into which all the food packs before moving into the digestive system. Things that cause impacted crops are anything a bird eats that is too big to move into the digestive system. Some of these too big things are whole grain (especially for small birds), grapes, and greens. When free ranging birds eat greens they rip off small pieces and these pieces pass freely out of the crop. One way I caused impacted crops in our flock was letting the flock out on once long, freshly mown grass. They have no problem with long unmown grass because they can rip off little pieces. Long strands of fresh cut grass pile up in the gizzard and can't get out. You need to flush and empty an impacted crop. You can use an eyedropper, a syringe without a needle, or a child�s ear syringe. Be sure to put the dropper or syringe all the way back in the bird�s mouth. There is a hole at the base of the tongue that leads to the bird�s lungs. You must be way past that or you will damage your bird. First Treatment You can start by putting an eyedropper full of vegetable oil into the crop and then massaging the crop. This will soften the impaction. Put the dropper all the way back in the bird's mouth and slowly push out the oil. Any vegetable oil is good: olive oil, corn oil, or canola oil. Mix 1/2-cup baking soda 1 pint of warm water Fill the syringe and insert it as far as you can into the mouth of the chicken. Have someone hold the bird upright in front of you. Slowly and very gently fill the crop, do not over fill and get liquid into that hole at the base of the tongue. Gently press up under the chicken�s breast and slide your hand up to the crop. This makes the bird open its mouth and the impacted mess will come out the bird's mouth. Push the contents up and out of the crop and out of the mouth. You can face the bird toward the ground to help empty the crop. Repeat this gentle stroking pressure until nothing comes up. If there the crop is not empty, flush it again until it is empty. Once the crop is empty, give another dropper of oil. Coop the bird away from other birds so it can rest. Provide about a cup of water with 1 teaspoon terramycin dissolved in it. Give no feed. Second Day If the bird is droopy on the next day, put molasses in the bird�s water for about four hours (1/4 cup per gallon of water). Remove the molasses water after four hours and give the bird fresh terramycin water. The molasses water will flush soured food from the bird�s digestive system. Follow Up Treatment If the crop impacts again, repeat the flush. Continue the terramycin for 7 days to avoid secondary infection. After 24 hours, give only soft food for a week or so. This lets the inflamed and irritated crop recover and prevents another impaction. The soft diet can include crumbles and chopped hard-boiled or microwaved eggs. You can feed bread if it is soaked in milk or buttermilk. Buttermilk is especially good because active culture buttermilk has good bacteria in it that help the bird�s digestion. Be sure to also give the bird some beneficial bacteria. They keep digestion going correctly and fight disease by crowding out disease bacteria. You can just mix 1-2 teaspoons per bird of ACTIVE culture yogurt with a small amount of food and give this as the only food until they eat it. You can also buy lactobacillus at health food stores, pharmacies, Wal-Mart, and Lake's Unlimited 800-634-2473. Give no grains, no large pellets, no not soaked bread, and no grass or greens because these can cause another impaction. Feed only things that almost fall apart when wet. Glenda Heywood likes to feed this for the week 1 slice wheat bread 1/2-cup buttermilk 3 tablespoons active culture yogurt with no artificial sweetener Babyfood (or unsweetened) `apple sauce (as Barb recommends below). Adding oil to the food will help avoid another impaction. Cod liver or wheat germ oil are good because they provide vitamins A, D, and E. Only add about 2% of the feed�s weight. Adding oil to the food will help avoid another impaction. Cod liver or wheat germ oil are good because they provide vitamins A, D, and E. Only add about 2% of the feed�s weight. Barb Silcott's Preventative and Followup Treatment "If you have a bird that continually comes up with an impacted crop, once you've emptied the crop and start making your soft feed for it, add some baby food type applesauce. (Unsweetened regular applesauce should be as good.) The applesauce helps get the crop emptied a little quicker and is also acidic which helps with the bacteria problem." "This works for sour crop, too. In fact, when we're hand-feeding parrots, we always add some baby food applesauce to the formula to prevent sour crop. Works great! With all the parrots I've hand-fed over the years, I've never had a case of sour crop. I specify baby food applesauce because it doesn't have any added sugar which just aggravates the problems." ******************************************************** Re: Sour Crop Subject: Re: Sour Crop I am new to this list, but I thought I would express my opinion. I had a 1 year old hen with a sour crop 2.5 weeks ago. We had thrown alot of old yeast rolls out in the lots and then let them free range that evening, the grass had just been mowed. Several days later I noticed she wasn't eating and had lost alot of weight. I did some quick research and this what I did. First we held her and then tipped her forward, massaged her crop and forced up a smelly white/yellow liquid. I had to do it 3-4 times to get it all up. Make sure you let her up after each time to let her get air, otherwise she will try to breath while puking and can suck the liquid into her lungs. If this happens she will not survive. After her crop is as empty as possible, use a laxative solution to get things moving. I used 1 teaspoon of Epsom Salt in 1 fl oz water(I have heard of people using vegetable oil: olive oil, corn oil, or canola oil). I put it down her throat with a long eye dropper, make sure you go past her breath hole. I did this twice using 1/3 of the solution each time. Immediately after she wanted to eat. I put her on very fine laying crumbles, later I added fine screened cracked corn. I also added a mild antibiotic to her water to keep her from getting a secondary infection. The next day there were 3 large piles of poop, full of rotten grass. She was isolated, very mad, for a week and grained over a pound of her weight back. She is back with the other hens now and is getting fat again. ********************************************************* OK, me again. Hope this helps! Velvet ~:>

Coping with "Sour Crop"

By Judy H. McElveen
Breeding and Management Advisor

"Sour crop" is a familiar used by many people to describe the phenomenon of delayed crop emptying. Thinking of it as "sour crop", though, can lead you astray as this is not a primary condition. That is to say, there is no "sour crop" bacteria or "sour crop" yeast. The delayed crop emptying comes about because of other reasons, some of which may be: brooder temperatures cooler than the chick needs; formula fed too cool, ingestion of bedding materials, a primary bacterial or yeast (fungal) condition, etc.

The time to become alarmed is when the chick’s crop is full when it should be empty or almost empty, such as when another feeding is due. Also, when the crop is not absolutely empty of formula first thing in the morning (after the chick was fed no later than 12:00 midnight). When the crop appears not to have emptied any appreciable amount of formula, the chick should go into a warmer brooder immediately (up to 98 degrees F., or slightly less than the temperature where the chick starts to pant). At this point, stop using a bedding product (if you do so) and put the chick on paper towels so that you can check to see if any feces are eliminated. If so, this is a hopeful sign, indicating that the crop has not stopped completely. The second step is to call your avian veterinarian if one is available. The vet can do a gram stain to find out if yeast, bacteria, or some other cause causes the crop problem. They should also be able to empty and flush the crop and give medications to treat the primary cause of the problem, in addition to medications to stimulate the crop to empty itself. If no veterinarian is available to you, the next step is to empty and flush the crop yourself. Leaving the old crop contents in the chick’s crop, no matter the cause of the crop slowdown, will allow bacteria and yeast normally present in the environment to multiply in the crop. Even if the cause of the crop slowdown was as simple as formula fed at too cool a temperature, this buildup of bacteria and/or yeast will create another, much more serious, condition.

Some books recommend turning the chick upside down and "milking" the crop; that is, pressing on it until the contents are expelled. I did this a few times before I learned to empty the crop using a soft rubber catheter and my results weren’t good. Yes, the crop can be emptied this way. No, the chick doesn’t always live through the process. Often, they will aspirate the crop contents and die immediately or within a few hours to a day thereafter.

I always keep soft rubber catheters in several sizes on hand. I use them for feeding sick and/or weaning birds that do not want to eat and, also, for emptying crop contents when necessary. For cockatiels, you might need a #10, a #12, #14, or #16. The problem with the smaller sizes (#10, #12) is that the holes in the end often become clogged with crop contents, especially if a parent has fed too much millet (for instance) and too little water, or if you are trying to remove pine shavings or other bedding materials that don’t dissolve in the crop. The large end of the catheter you intend to use is slipped over the tip of a 60-cc catheter-tip syringe. The unattached end of the catheter is then passed into the chick’s crop and the plunger of the syringe is drawn up. Often, the crop contents will clog the catheter before you can draw up all the crop contents. In that case, empty the tube into a paper cup (so you can examine contents when all are extracted) and keep going back into the crop and removing more until the crop is empty, or nearly so. At this point, examine the crop contents. If you find pine shaving or lots of undigested millet, you will know what the problem is. If you find white clumps of stuff in with the formula, you probably have a yeast problem (candida). If the crop contents are slimy and/or smelly, the chick might have a bacterial problem developing.

Sometimes, with a very young chick, you simply can’t remove crop contents with any catheter that is small enough to go down the esophagus and into the small chick’s crop. In those cases, you have no choice but to "milk" the crop to empty it. The chick might die, but it will usually be fast. If the unmoving crop contents are left as is, the chick will die a slow death of dehydration and starvation. After emptying the crop, believe it or not (and you can go ahead and groan), you are going to put something back into the crop, then remove it. If you have some Nolvasan, mix some into water until the water is pale blue, heat to 104 degrees F., then insert from 5 to 15 cc’s of the Nolvasan water into the crop, leaving approximately two minutes. Emptying this time should be easier, as most of the big stuff that might clog the catheter has already been removed. If you continue to get some white stuff or some slimy stuff out of the crop, repeat this procedure until all that comes out is the Nolvasan water. At this point, put the chick back into the brooder to warm up. If you have some Nystatin, give the chick .5 cc before putting it into the brooder. Nystatin is the treatment drug of choice for yeast infections (Candida). If your veterinarian hasn’t entrusted you with a supply, ask for some to have on hand. Nystatin cannot do harm, since it is not absorbed by the body. It does its work of killing yeast cells through contact as it passes through the mouth, crop and the rest of the gastrointestinal tract and is then excreted. (Note: the crop must be empty for this medication to work.) After about five minutes, give a small amount of warm, boiled or distilled water (5 to 10 cc’s), or the same amount of warmed Pedialyte (or generic equivalent). If this passes through within two or three hours and the crop is again empty, you can feed a small amount of very thin formula next time, gradually increasing amounts and decreasing liquid until you are giving the normal 2 parts water to 1 part dry formula mixture. This process should take about a day. Remember that your chick will die of dehydration (loss of fluid and essential nutrients from the cells of the body) long before it dies of starvation, so the liquid is the most important thing to keep moving through the chick. Water is better than no liquid, but go get some Pedialyte, as it contains necessary electrolytes and minerals needed by the system. (It is a product formulated for the purpose of preventing dehydration in children who are vomiting or have diarrhea.)

If the liquid does not empty quickly, you will need to get the chick to a vet in order to save it, as the chick will dehydrate very quickly. The veterinarian can give IV (intravenous) fluids (usually Lactated Ringer’s Solution) when the chick is too far-gone for oral preparations to help or if the crop is not moving at all. Also, a veterinarian can give injections to stimulate the crop into moving its contents along. To go back to (almost) the beginning of this article, if you have only a small amount of food left in a chick’s crop overnight, you might try giving a little Pedialyte, 5 to 10 cc’s and then massaging the crop. If this is going to help, the chick should produce droppings within an hour. If it does so, even if the crop is not totally empty, there is still hope of heading off a serious problem. At this point, continue giving liquid until the crop appears to be emptying in the normal, followed by thin formula, etc. Never, ever, feed more food on top of undigested food.

If you ever pull chicks from the parents and find that their droppings stink, chances are they have a bacterial infection passed to them by the parents, often E. Coli or Clostridium. Giardia can also cause bad smelling droppings. Almost always, the bad smelling droppings indicate a need for treatment with an antibiotic. The ideal at this point is to have a Culture and Sensitivity Test done. (This is a test involving a sample taken from various sites, in this case crop contents and/or droppings, and placed on a growth medium. Bacteria present will grow into a colony or patch on the growth medium, and various methods are used to identify the specific bacteria and any yeast present. The "plate" is then sectioned and a different antibiotic is applied to different areas. The antibiotic that most inhibits the growth of, and/or kills the harmful bacteria is the one that will be most effective against the bacteria when given to your chick.) Without this test, you don’t know which bacteria are causing the problem, for sure, or which antibiotic will be helpful. Many veterinarians, mine included, will entrust clients they’ve known for a long time and who they trust, with a broad-spectrum antibiotic (such as Baytril)to use in emergency situations.

The problem with this, in addition to not knowing if the antibiotic will be effective, is that treatment with antibiotic will sometimes encourage the growth of yeast. For this reason, vets often give Nystatin at the same time they give an antibiotic to unweaned chicks. As agreed with my veterinarian, I will often treat candida infections myself without ever involving her. She knows that I will bring any chicks that don’t improve immediately in to see her. I will also usually treat the "stinky poop" problem with Baytril and Nystatin, unless I am dealing with an unusually valuable chick. I must say, my nose has become an important diagnostic tool and I have been successful with this regimen most of the time. The danger here, which I sometimes accept, is that treatment with any antibiotic will make it difficult to get an accurate culture and sensitivity test done if the antibiotic I’ve used doesn’t work. Do not think that you will go to see a veterinarian for the first time and they will trust you with prescription medications to be used at your own discretion. It took my veterinarian and me many years to build up this level of trust and comfort with one another. Nor was I comfortable, at first, doing the medicating without having the doctor order it, so we had lots of phone conversations where symptoms were described in detail and drug treatment agreed upon. Only after years and years of seeing the same two or three problems quite often, over and over again, did I become confident of my own ability to make some decisions. It’s fair to say that the vet had confidence in me before I did! Many times, even today, I will discover a chick in the nest that has such a serious problem, with the crop totally stopped, that it needs professional medical treatment immediately in order to have any chance at all to live. By the way, if you have pairs that consistently produce chicks with bad smelling droppings or who infect their chicks with Candida before the chicks leave the nestbox, the parents themselves need to be treated before being allowed to produce more babies, as following clutches will almost always have the same problem(s).

To those who think large parrots are harder to raise than cockatiels: I say, not so! I find that cockatiels have, by far, the most bacterial and yeast infections during handfeeding. Some breeders tell me they don’t have this problem at all and I believe them, but my focus has been on developing the "perfect" pied, and specifically whitefaced cinnamon pieds. Could the combination of recessive traits be causing my cockatiels to have weaker immune systems? Many people do believe that the recessive mutations are genetically weaker.

How to Cure Crop Bound Chooks!

I will warn you that the surgery should not be your first course of action.  Also, you massage the crop rather than trying to squeeze it out.  The olive oil works to soften and lubricate the mass and massage will help break it up.  Also, provide grit so that as it starts to break up, the chicken can take in grit to further break up the mass.  Adding apple cider vinegar (ACV) to the chickens' drinking water will help by reducing any mucous that may be contributing to the problem.  Repeat the olive oil and massage several times throughout the day. 

One treatment for sour crop is to make the chicken regurgitate, but this can be dangerous because the chicken can aspirate (breathe in) the vomit. 

Here is more comprehensive information from the first link in my signature:


Impacted and Sour Crop

Chickens need grit to digest food in the crop.  When food gets blocked in the crop and cannot be digested, the result is an impacted crop.  It presents as a hard lump in the chest.  Check for this in the morning as it can be confused for a full crop, which is normal.  The crop will naturally empty overnight if it is simply a full crop, but an impacted crop will not.  Sometimes and impaction will rot in the crop and become squishy and foul smelling.  This is a sour crop.  Both impacted crop and sour crop keep the bird from digesting food properly.

Impacted Crop
Olive oil and massage - olive oil can help loosen an impaction.  Simply put a two or three drops of olive oil at the back of the chicken's throat so that she swallows it and gently massage the crop.  This may need to be repeated.  Make grit available to the chicken, as well.

Sour Crop

Powdered copper sulfate - has anti-fungal properties.  Dosage is 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water, changed daily for several days.  This will also inhibit the growth of certain types of bacteria, an added benefit.  Can be used with apple cider vinegar.

Apple cider vinegar (ACV) - aids in the removal of mucus build up in the digestive tract that may contribute to sour crop.  Can be used with the powdered copper sulfate.

** Recipe for sour crop (found offsite) **
Coper Sulfate measurements.. be exact
Use 1 gm (0.035 oz) of Copper Sulfate (bluestone) to 2 litres (3.52 pints) of water be very careful about the measurements of the Copper Sulfate too much will kill your bird
Add 2 teaspoons of Apple Cider Vinegar
Mix in some Cranberry Juice to make it more palatable for the birds to drink and disguise the taste of the copper sulfate and vinegar
Give this medicated water as the sole source of drinking water for 4 to 7 days, in some cases you may need to extend this time until you feel that the condition is over
Do not use metal containers only plastic ones
Put the mixture out fresh each day

Suction - in severe cases of sour crop, connect a soft catheder tube to a needless syringe.  The catheter must be inserted down the throat and into the crop.  This is uncomfortable for the chicken and you may give her a drop or two of Bach's Rescue Remedy to help calm her for this process.  Once the catheter is in the crop, carefully pull the plunger of the syringe to suck liquid from the crop.

Herbal Treatments

Homeopathic Treatments

• Give Nux vomica 12 pellets dissolved in drinking water.
• If no improvement or there is vomiting give Pulsatilla.
• Also may give China or Carbo veg. Or Arsenicum.

Conjunctivitis

Other Names

ammonia blindness


Organism or Mechanism

ammonia fumes


Preventative Measures

• Provide good ventilation and dry litter.
• If you can smell ammonia, there is too much.

Management Treatments

• Remove wet or soiled bedding and provide dry, dust-free bedding
• Adjust carbon/nitrogen ratio in composting litter.
 • Increase ventilation and access to the outdoors.


Physical Treatments
 
• Apply Euphrasia tea or eydrops (NOT TINCTURE) to eyes.

Nutritional Treatments


• Give Vitamin A


Herbal Treatments


• Euphrasia tea or eyedrops (NOT TINCTURE) applied topically (20)


Homeopathic Treatments


• Euphrasia 6C
• If yellow discharge try Pulsatilla 30C (2

Coccidiosis

 Other Names
 Cocci

Organism or Mechanism
 Eimeria tenella, E. necatrix, E. acervulina, E. maxina, E. praecox, E. mitis coccidial protozoan parasites


Preventative Measures
 • Develop resistance in chicks (possibly through exposure to older birds or litter).
 • Rotate pastures frequently.
• Keep litter dry and restrict access to droppings.
 • Give one clove of crushed garlic per chick.
 • Maintain vigilance for symptoms.
 • Keep age groups separate.
 • Ensure litter is dry but not dusty.
 • Keep watering facilities away from litter.
 • Ensure high standards of hygiene for personnel.
 • Ensure good hygiene of feeders and drinkers.
 • Keep raising level of drinks for growing chicks.
 • Administer Paracox TM vaccine at a rate of 0.1 ml per chicken in drinking water at 5-9 days old.
 • Use resistant breeds: White Leghorn, New Hampshire, Rhode Island Red
• Give apple cider vinegar (1T/5 gal) in drinking water


Management Treatments
• High temperatures (above 56 C), freezing, drying can kill oocysts, or ammonia based disinfectants.
 • Move poultry to new ground and heavily lime old ground, fumigate the houses by
burning cayenne pepper or juniper powder


Physical Treatments


• Give DE in feed


Nutritional Treatments


• Give probiotics in feed.
• Following a fast give a laxative diet with bran, molasses, and greens (chickweed, groundsel, rue, sow thistle, mustards, comfrey, lettuce, cresses, and grass seed.
• Give buttermilk to help expel worms.
• Poultry fed corn-based diets have been shown to survive Coccidiosis better than those on wheat-based diets



Herbal Treatments

• Fast for 1 day on warm water then give drops of senna brew (1 ½ pods soaked in 1 dessertspoon of water with a few grains of powdered ginger.
• Give dried leaves of Artemisia annua as an in-feed supplement.

Homeopathic Treatments

• Give Mercurius cor. Or Ipecac. In clean drinking water.
• If birds are listless with bloody droppings give—Merc cor, Ipecac.
• If pale comb and lack of appetite give—Chellidonium, Nux vomica.
 • If head remedy needed give—Merc so
• If birds are emaciated with diarrhea give—Aconite, Merc, Podo, or Ipecac.
• Combination remedy of Merc cor30+Nux vomica30+Sulphur30, 5ml each in 8 liters of water for 100 birds for 3 days.

Chronic Respiratory Disease

Chronic Respiratory Disease

Introduction

Infection with Mycoplasma gallisepticum is associated with slow onset, chronic respiratory disease in chickens, turkeys, game birds, pigeons and other wild birds. Ducks and geese can become infected when held with infected chickens. In turkeys it is most associated with severe sinusitis (see separate description in the turkey section). The condition occurs worldwide, though in some countries this infection is now rare in commercial poultry. In others it is actually increasing because of more birds in extensive production systems that expose them more to wild birds. 

In adult birds, though infection rates are high, morbidity may be minimal and mortality varies. 

The route of infection is via the conjunctiva or upper respiratory tract with an incubation period of 6-10 days. Transmission may be transovarian, or by direct contact with birds, exudates, aerosols, airborne dust and feathers, and to a lesser extent fomites. Spread is slow between houses and pens suggesting that aerosols are not normally a major route of transmission. Fomites appear to a significant factor in transmission between farms. Recovered birds remain infected for life; subsequent stress may cause recurrence of disease. 

The infectious agent survives for only a matter of days outwith birds although prolonged survival has been reported in egg yolk and allantoic fluid, and in lyophilised material. Survival seems to be improved on hair and feathers. Intercurrent infection with respiratory viruses (IB, ND, ART), virulent E. coli, Pasteurella spp. Haemophilus, and inadequate environmental conditions are predisposing factors for clinical disease.

Other Names

 CRD, air sac disease, airsacculitis

Organism or Mechanism

 Mycoplasma gallisepticum bacteria

Post-mortem lesions

• Airsacculitis.
• Pericarditis.
• Perihepatitis (especially with secondary E. coli infection).
• Catarrhal inflammation of nasal passages, sinuses, trachea and bronchi.
• Occasionally arthritis, tenosynovitis and salpingitis in chickens.

Diagnosis

Lesions, serology, isolation and identification of organism, demonstration of specific DNA (commercial PCR kit available). Culture requires inoculation in mycoplasma-free embryos or, more commonly in Mycoplasma Broth followed by plating out on Mycoplasma Agar. Suspect colonies may be identified by immuno-flourescence.

Serology: serum agglutination is the standard screening test, suspect reactions are examined further by heat inactivation and/or dilution. Elisa is accepted as the primary screening test in some countries. HI may be used, generally as a confirmatory test. Suspect flocks should be re-sampled after 2-3 weeks. Some inactivated vaccines for other diseases induce 'false positives' in serological testing for 3-8 weeks. PCR is possible if it is urgent to determine the flock status.

Differentiate from Infectious Coryza, Aspergillosis, viral respiratory diseases, vitamin A deficiency, other Mycoplasma infections such as M. synoviae and M. meleagridis(turkeys).

Preventive Measures

 • Purchase Mycoplasma-free birds (only from NPIP participants).
 • Practice good sanitation because it lasts on hands, clothes, and boots for several hours.
 • Avoid mixing poultry of different ages.
 • Avoid dust, chilling, and poor ventilation.
 • Prevent rodent infestation.
 • Prevent stress and ensure good nutrition.

Management Treatment

 • Provide warm, draft-free housing with proper ventilation.
 • Move birds to a clean environment.

Physical Treatment

Nutritional Treatment

Herbal Treatments

Homeopathic Treatments

 • If sneezing, coughing give--Antim trat, Belladona, Ars alb.
 • If water from eyes give--Euphrasia, Arg nrt.
 • If water from nose give--Allium cepa, Ars alb.
 • If white diarrhea give--Calc carb.
 • Combination remedy of Thuja200+Nat sulf200+Carbo veg200+Bryonia200, 5ml each in 8 liters of water for 100 birds for 3 days.

Cholera

INTRODUCTION:

Fowl cholera occurs worldwide in turkeys, chickens, ducks, geese and birds of prey. It affects young adults but in general more males than females. Fowl cholera is a contagious bacterial infection. The disease can range from acute septicaemia (blood poisoning) to chronic and localised infections. Domestic fowl, game birds and small feral birds are susceptible. Turkeys are more susceptible than chickens, older chickens are more susceptible than young ones, and some breeds of chickens are more susceptible than others. The disease is rare in broiler-aged chickens. Chronically infected birds are considered to be a major source of infection. Transmission is from bird to bird or from infected premises. Recovered birds remain carriers.

DETAILED INFORMATION:

 Fowl Cholera Is An Infectious Disease In Domestic Fowl, Waterfowl And Other Avian Species. It Is Manifested Either In Acute Septicaemic Form With A High Morbidity And Death Rates Or As Chronic Local Forms (Independently Or Secondary To Acute Ones). Acute Fowl Cholera. The Sudden And Unexpected Death Could Be The First Sign Of The Disease. In This Form, The Lesions Are Predominantly Related To Vascular Injuries.

Commonly Observed Signs Are Anorexia, Ruffled Feathers, Oral And Nasal Mucus Discharge, Cyanosis And White Or Greenish Watery Mucoid Diarrhoea. Frequently, Subserous Petechial Or Ecchymosed Haemorrhages In The Anterior Part Of The Small Intestine, The Gizzard Or The Abdominal Fat Are Discovered.

 Congestion (Overfilling Of Blood Vessels With Red Blood Cells) Of The Liver As An Initial Manifestation Of E. Coli Septicaemia In A Broiler Chicken. H/E, Bar = 40 Μm.

In Layers (Commercial Or Breeders), Acute Oophorites With Regressing Follicles And Consequently, Diffuse Peritonites Are Commonly Observed.

Chronic Fowl Cholera. It Is Characterized By Local Inflammations. The Periorbital Sinuses Are Frequently Affected By A Serofibrinous Inflammation.

Another Local Form Is The Injury Of Wattles That Are Strongly Distended Because Of Their Filling With Fibrinous Caseous Content. The Flocks That Recuperated From Fowl Cholera Continue To Carry And Shed Pasteurella Multocida. The Carriers Store The Organism In Nasal Choanas And Contaminate The Forage, Water And The Environment With Oral Discharges. Wild Birds And Some Mammals (Swine) Could Also Carry The Agent And Introduce It Into Poultry Flocks. Cannibalism Is An Essential Route Of Spreading The Infection.

The Fibrinous Caseous Exuate Accumilated In Wattles Sometimes Leads To Gangrene Of The Covering Skin.

Possibly Be Spread From Sinuses To Adjacent Air-Filled Skull Bones With Subsequent Necrosis And Onset Of Neurological Signs (Opisthotonus And Torticolis). The Diagnosis Is Made On The Basis Of Disease History, Clinical Signs, The Lesions And The Results Of Bacteriological Studies. Fowl Cholera Should Be Differentiated From Acute E. Coli Septicaemia, Erysipeloid, Fowl Typhoid Etc. The Immunization Of Birds At The Age Of 8 -12 Weeks Gives Very Promising Results. Many Antibiotics And Sulfonamides Could Lower Death Rate, But At Discontinuation Of The Treatment, The Disease Could Recur. Sulfonamides Are Appropriate For Treatment, But They Inhibit Egg-Laying.

Other Names

 avian cholera, fowl cholera, avian pasteurellosis 

Organism or Mechanism

It is caused by a gram-negative, non-spore-forming rod, bipolar bacteria,  Pasturella multocida, Pasteurella Aviancide. Variation in pathogenicity occurs between isolates.

Mode of Transmission

• Sources of infection include carrier birds and clinically diseased poultry that have died from the infection. Wild birds, rodents and cats can all be a source of infection. Spread from infection flocks to healthy flocks with equipment, feed bags and other fomites is possible.

 • Cats, wild birds and rodents can all act as carriers. Spread from bird to bird by contact. It is a stress disease occurring at point of lay and with seasonal change.

Symptoms & Diagnosis

Laboratory isolation of the organism is diagnositic. Pasturella should be cultured on blood agar or meat infusion media. A lever impression smear stained with Wright’s stain will yield bipolar rods, which are diagnostic.

Peracute septicaemic disease in pullets and large swollen necrotic liver give a presumptive diagnosis.

Clinical findings vary greatly depending on the course of the disease. In acute cases, increased mortality is usually the first indication. Affected birds have swelling of the face or wattles, discharge from the nostrils, mouth and eyes which may become “cheesy”, laboured breathing and, in some cases, incoordination. The face and combs and wattles may become cyanotic (turn a bluish colour). Other symptoms include depression, loss of appetite, lameness, diarrheoa and ruffled feathers.

Chronic disease causes torticollis (retraction of the head and neck backwards), otitis (ear infection) emaciation, severe mortality, enlargement of wattles, combs, legs, footpads and wing joints and peritonitis.

Swollen sinuses and hocks, dehydration, respiratory distress, swollen joints, drop in egg production, fertility and hatchability can also occur.

Note: Need a quick disease diagnosis? Call the Asia Pacific Centre for Animal Health on +61 3 9731 2275 for cost-effective rapid tests for a range of poultry diseases, including Fowl cholera.

Preventive Measures:

 • Purchase cholera free birds. 

• Prevent stress.

 • Practice good management.

 • Provide well-ventilated houses by judging the ventilation from the height at which it influences the birds, not necessarily from human height.

 • Prevent rodent infestation since rats are a major disease reservoir and a source of infection.

 • Reduce contact with cats and dogs. 

 • Vaccinate with a bacterin or a live vaccine. Sixteen serotypes have been demonstrated with limited cross-protection between serotypes. Serotypes 1, 3 and 4 are most common and found in most commercial vaccines.

Special note

Infected birds which recover become carriers. Relapse of the disease is common in times of stress such as weather change.

Management Treatments

• Isolate and dispose of flock.

• Leave housing vacant for 3 mos. 

• Vaccinate flocks following an outbreak and thoroughly disinfect the premises.

• This bacterium is susceptible to ordinary disinfectants, sunlight, drying, and heat.

• Fowl cholera can be treated with sulfonamides and antibiotics.

• Vaccines are available but give variable results.

• A new live attenuated vaccine is being developed in Australia and is hoped to be released soon. 

• A live vaccine should give more widespread protection than the individual inactivated types.

•The disease is best controlled by eradication. Prevention relies on good biosecurity practices, with good sanitation and rodent control and separation of birds by age with thorough cleanout between flocks.

Physical Treatments

 • Give pulverized mixture of 2oz. Capsicum, 2oz. Asafetida, 1 oz. Rhubarb, 6 oz.

 Spanish brown, and 2 oz. Flowers of sulphur at 1 tsp./2 quarts mash 2 X day

 • OTC (100-200 g/ton), Erythromycin, Sulfaquinoxaline and Ormetropin/Trimethoprim (0.125% + 0.0075%), and Sulfamethazine (0.49%) and Flumequine are effective.

Nutritional Treatments

 • Feed parch corn, or parched cracked corn, almost to coffee-color as a supplement.

Herbal Treatments

  

Homeopathic Treatments

 • Dissolve 2 dozen to 1/2 vial of Veratrum alb. in drinking water or in water used to moisten feed for prevention or treatment.

 • Also good are Arsenicum or Arsenicum iod. 3 (iodide of arsenic), mix 2 drams of pellets with 2 pounds of feed.

 • If hens have puffed faces, bright red color, and crouch give Nux vomica.

 • If swelling of joints of legs and lameness give--Rhus tox, Sulphur.

 • If difficult breathing and thick nasal discharge give--Calc flour+Hepar sulph, Kali bich.

 • If greenish colored diarrhea--Pulsatilla, Sulphur; or combination of Calc Phos30+Ferum30+Kali sulph30, 5ml each in 16 liters of water for 100 birds, 4 times a day for 7 days.